Starter Size Difference, 356 vs. VW

Text by Jim Breazeale, Alan Klingen, Brad Ripley, and Dave Wildrick, photos submitted by Ken Daugherty

The pictures at the bottom of this page illustrate the difference between the 356 (top photo) and VW starter (lower photo) and why the VW starter does not fit well in some 356s. Except in the later cars, the VW starter will hit the underbody of the 356.

Brad Ripley: For the early EED starter (that's the one with the "square" solenoid), only the Porsche version will fit properly in the 356/356A body. That is a four-brush, 0.5 horse unit with an end casting marked: ALLG 28L.

For the late EEF starter (that's the one with the "round" solenoid and installed in cars after August, 1961), the correct casting number is ALLG 56L and one side plus 2-xx on the other side. I've found 2-9, 2-11, 2-12, etc.

On the early EED series, VW versions have only two brushes and are rated 0.4 hp — says that stamped into the case. Probably those are the cause for some starting difficulties (beyond a bad ignition switch). I wasn't aware that the other end castings caused the solenoid to hit the trans case. I thought they hit the body.

Jim Breazeale: Bosch (as well as most commercial rebuilders) rebuilt starters have the same part number as VWs. There is only one starter for your 356C Porsche. Unfortunately, Bosch does not have a separate part number for their rebuilt starters and freely substitutes a VW in it's place. The only difference is the orientation of the starter as it bolts to the transmission. The mounting holes on VW starters are at approximately 90 degrees to the solenoid and the Porsche starter had the holes at about 30 degrees. The VW starter will work but there will be problems installing it. The best solution is to have the Porsche starter in your car rebuilt by an expert who knows what they are doing. [view photos of early and late 356 and VW starters]

C starters are much smaller in overall dimensions than the earlier starters that came in 356s, 356As and 356Bs. Putting a "late" VW starter in a 356 will not cause much of an "interference" problem. The problem arises when one tries to install an "early" VW starter in a 356.

Alan Klingen: "The major difference is where the mounting holes are located. The true 356 starter has one of its mounting holes very close to the selonoid, as close as it can get. The VW one places them in such a position that on some cars it becomes very hard to install the starter because the selenoid will want to hit the body. You are better off getting a true 356 starter rebuilt and use it. If your car has a real 356 starter, don't give it in as a core! Keep it and have it rebuilt."

Dave Wildrick: "The 6V VW starter will fit in a C coupe. In fact, I have one in my 65C coupe right now. However, as Alan suggests, I would still recommend having the original rebuilt because it fits better, has slightly more horsepower, and is more valuable."

Late 356 starter, earlier type has connections on solenoid similar to VW style

Early VW starter, note how the solenoid is positioned slightly higher relative to the motor

VW starter and 356 starter side-by-side. Ken Daugherty says, "a fast and easy way to tell a 356 starter from a VW starter is to lay the starter on a table and if the solenoid almost touches the table its a 356."

Technical advice given on these pages is provided free and without warranty. The user of information presented on these pages assumes all responsibility and liability in its use. We're not lawyers, we're car folk, just sharing our experience. Be careful, use your head, have fun.

Questions or comments, please email to Barry Lee Brisco, Website Technical Editor,